Martin Margiela‘The Outsiders - Paris’Photography by Ronald StoopsFeaturing Martin Margielas’ collectionsThe High Spirits Issue no.78 March 1990
Martin Margiela
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Martin Margiela (born April 9, 1957 in Leuven, Belgium) is a Belgian fashion designer. He studied at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts along with the legendary avantgarde fashion collective the Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela was only temporarily associated with the group before he retired and was replaced by Martina Yee. Many still consider him to be the "7th" member of the collective.
Life and work
Martin Margiela presents his L'Incognito Sunglasses, 2008
After graduation in 1980 he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1988. In 1997 he became, despite his non-traditional design, the chief designer of Hermès women's line.
L'Incognito Sunglasses, 2008
During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Mr Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.
Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23 (see table below). The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments.
An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela's face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons, who appears to have declined the offer. Margiela's brand was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002 and industry insiders quoted in the article suggested that Martin Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "... a desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world." [1]
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Martin Margiela (born April 9, 1957 in Leuven, Belgium) is a Belgian fashion designer. He studied at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts along with the legendary avantgarde fashion collective the Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela was only temporarily associated with the group before he retired and was replaced by Martina Yee. Many still consider him to be the "7th" member of the collective.
Life and work
Martin Margiela presents his L'Incognito Sunglasses, 2008
After graduation in 1980 he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1988. In 1997 he became, despite his non-traditional design, the chief designer of Hermès women's line.
L'Incognito Sunglasses, 2008
During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Mr Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.
Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23 (see table below). The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments.
An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela's face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons, who appears to have declined the offer. Margiela's brand was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002 and industry insiders quoted in the article suggested that Martin Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "... a desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world." [1]
Ranges
0 Garments redesigned by hand for women / Artisanal
0 +10. Garments redesigned by hand for men / Artisanal
Artisanal garments by Margiela have been part of his collection since the fall/winter 1989-90 collection. Made by hand at the firm's atelier in Paris out of vintage materials, the Artisanal collection is limited in quantity.
1. The collection for women
The original Margiela collection, which eschews the numbered tag for a blank, white label. This is Margiela's primary pret-a-porter line for women.
10. The collection for men
Introduced in 1999, 10 is made of disparate garments of equally high standards of material and construction, to be freely combined. A T-shirt, jeans, and suit jacket could be worn together.
4. A wardrobe for women
First shown for spring/summer 2004, 4 is a line of garments expressly meant for comfort and intimacy.
14. A wardrobe for men
Introduced in spring/summer 2005, 14 is meant to "evoke timelessness." To emphasize how 14 bridges the past and the present, each season Margiela produces a set of replica items. These resemble the original as closely as possible and are labeled with their origin and period.
11. A collection of accessories for women and men
22. A collection of shoes for women and men
MM6. Garments for women MM6 are more casual garments for women, generally less conceptual than the avant-garde 1 line.
8. Eyewear for men and women
13. Other objects and magazines
Stores
In his stores, salespeople wear white lab coats. Deconstructed store in unusual locations away from expensive fashion streets.
23, rue de Montpensier Paris 75001 France
114, rue de Flandre 1000 Bruxelles Belgium
2-8-13 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya Tokyo 150-0022 Japan
1-9 Bruton Place Mayfair London W1J 6NE
803 Greenwich Street New York 10014 USA
9970 South Santa Monica Blvd Beverly Hills CA 90212
3F, N°300, Sec.3, Jhongsiao E road, Taipei Taiwan (formerly a Burger King)
Via della Spiga, 46 20121 Milano Italy
34, Maximilian str 34 Munich, Germany
Trivia
Nicolas Ghesquiere, the designer of Balenciaga, has said on several occasions that he is a fan of Margiela and often wears Margiela's clothes.[citation needed]
In October 2008, Maison Martin Margiela celebrates its 20th anniversary. For this occasion, the Fashion Museum Antwerp presents the unique exhibition, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ( 20) The exhibition. Conceived in close collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, this exhibition takes place at the Antwerp Fashion Museum from 12 September 2008 through 8 February 2009. http://www.momu.be/
External links
A Magazine curated by Maison Martin Margiela
Biography from ArtandCulture.com
Unfinished dress pattern by Martin Margiela
Martin Margiela's Ligne 6 duffle bag featured on JCReport.com
Martin Margiela line 22
References
^ http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/02/fashion/shows/02MARGIELA.html?_r=2&partner=permalink&exprod=permalink&oref=slogin
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Categories: 1957 births Living people Belgian fashion designers Haute couture People from Leuven
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